Luxor and Aswan: Lonely Planet's 9-Temple Honest Guide

Lonely Planet's new guide to the ancient sites of Luxor and Aswan delivers the practical advice you actually need. Here is the straightforward take on their top 9 destinations.

**Karnak is the big one.** Lonely Planet calls it Egypt's largest temple complex, covering nearly a full square mile. The site was built over 1500 years by 30 pharaohs. The area you enter first is the newest.

**Luxor Temple is your evening visit.** It stays open until 7 p.m., an hour past most other sites. It is floodlit at dusk, and you can see a mosque and early Christian paintings built into its walls.

**The Valley of the Kings is the artistic high point**, but only if you survive the heat. Lonely Planet warns it is a recipe for heat exhaustion without shade and water. The Tomb of Seti I is the standout, but comes with a 2,000 Egyptian pound ticket on top of the entrance fee. Lonely Planet says its restoration makes the paintings look like new.

**Carter House is the better way to see Tut.** The replica in the archaeologist's garden is wheelchair accessible and more sustainable than the real tomb.

**The Temple of Khnum at Esna** is skipped by big cruise ships. Take a smaller boat or a day trip from Luxor.

**The Temple of Horus at Edfu** has its original roof. It is among the best preserved. You can see early Christian graffiti if you look for it.

**The Temple of Kom Ombo** is your two-for-one. It is dedicated to Sobek and Horus. It stays open until 8 p.m.

**Philae Temple** is on an island and requires a boat. It has the last known hieroglyph, dated 394 CE. It was relocated by UNESCO.

**Abu Simbel** needs planning. The solar alignment happens a day later than in ancient times. Lonely Planet recommends a Lake Nasser cruise for a quieter afternoon visit.

**The bottom line:** Budget 5 days. All sites are cash-free since 2023. Hire a guide, because Lonely Planet says signage is nearly nonexistent. And bring a hat and water.

• Abu Simbel
• Aswan
• Egypt
• Karnak
• Lonely Planet
• Luxor
• Valley of the Kings